Although it’s been 23 years since the popular show Dawson’s Creek premiered on the WB network, admittedly my only point of reference to Wilmington, NC was the TV show, although I never watched it. I am mildly obsessed (okay, maybe more than a little mildly) with magazines though and had seen countless references to it over the years, particularly around the time that one of the star’s, Katie Holmes, married Tom Cruise.
With my curiosity piqued, I figured it might be time to see what all the fuss was about and head down to the area to visit after years of vacationing in New England each year with my family. There were a few drawbacks to taking the trip South – warmer weather, terrible traffic in Virginia for the ride down, and mosquitoes, which are also quite bad in my home state of Maryland – but that did not detract at all from what was a very nice visit.
Wilmington is a port city known as a gateway to Cape Fear Coast beaches like Wrightsville, with its strong surf, and Carolina, with its long boardwalk. Part of downtown’s Historic District, the Riverwalk is lined with restaurants, galleries, and shops. It runs along the Cape Fear River, a rough body of water (after I stood on the edge and saw how fast the water was moving, I moved away very quickly!), where the Battleship North Carolina is moored. Part of the charm of the area is undoubtedly the beautiful historic district which stretches for several blocks.
During the Civil War, Wilmington served as the access point for a significant bulk of Confederate supplies, including clothing, munitions, and food. The supplies were cut after blockade runners could no longer pass through the Union line of defense. In 1865, the Confederacy lost its last open supply line when Fort Fisher fell to its demise, causing Wilmington to surrender to Union forces. This late surrender in the course of the Civil War meant that some of the damage that impacted other Southern cities, never came to pass and what has been preserved is a pristine historic center with gorgeous structures, each with historical signs noting when they were built and who originally owned the homes.
The city has a relaxed and youthful vibe and given that the University of North Carolina Wilmington is only a short ride away, there is an energy that you don’t find too often with a creativity that is on display in restaurants, design, and in offerings in some of the retail establishments.
We rented a beautiful historic bungalow located within walking distance of the downtown. I cannot say enough good things about the people who rented the house to us, Matt and Chris. They were attentive and delightful hosts. I honestly didn’t want to leave! I highly recommend checking out the listing if you are interested in a trip to Wilmington. Our family of four had plenty to do – from swimming in the backyard pool each day, to grabbing coffee and doughnuts in the morning at Wake and Bake and catching live music downtown at a number of venues. Bicentennial Park was located right around the corner and our dog Murphy enjoyed his walks there each day. The trip was just the relaxing respite that was needed.
As always, we visited a few of the notable dining establishments which are highlighted below and are recommended:
Restaurants
Benny’s Big Time Pizzeria – this is a fun homage to an old school pizza joint with a Southern twist owned by chef Vivian Howard. The pizzas are excellent and are Neapolitan style with some fun toppings. I really enjoyed the chopped salad, and we also ordered a Southern version of chicken parmesan which came in a bath of hot honey.
The Harp – This Irish pub is slightly out of the downtown area but serves up some great fish and chips and an excellent Irish breakfast served all day. Because it is a bit farther away from the action, you may actually find an empty seat as we did, since the restaurants downtown tend to be overwhelmed over the summer with visitors hopping from place to place. This is worth the trip if you can make it over!
YoSake – A pleasant oasis in a sea of the usual restaurants serving standard fair, YoSake is a popular destination for discerning diners who enjoy noodles, sushi, or fun appetizers with an Asian twist. There are special happy hour deals worth checking out on Thursdays offering ramen noodles for $10. The portions are HUGE! Plus, if you like spicy wings, they serve up Korean wings that are excellent along with some fabulous crispy brussel sprouts. Check out the Maui Wowie sushi with pineapple!
RumCow – This is a fun spot with numerous tropical drinks on offer, including a really good painkiller and for those who are like me and prefer cocktails with a little less sugar, they will also accommodate you. The staff is great and helpfully will offer suggestions on food and even other restaurants to check out! They bill themselves as offering American dishes with a global flair and this is evident by the menu which offers Nashville fried chicken and waffles and avocado fries, which are awesome!
Fortunate Glass – I admit that I love a good glass of wine every now and then and this esteemed wine bar in downtown Wilmington on Front Street really does provide something for everyone. Offering an intimate and romantic setting inside it is the perfect place for a date or private gathering. They offer a terrific wine selection with selections from all around the globe at different pocket friendly price points or for those who would like to spend a bit more. You can also get a great charcuterie platter and small plates if you are looking for a snack or something to nibble while enjoying the wine.
Mo’s Original Barbeque – As the former Director of Communications for the pork industry, I had my fill of some of the best pork barbeque this country offers, and North Carolina produces just about some of the finest. In the number one pork consumption state in the country, I would expect nothing less. Mo’s came highly recommended by locals and offers a terrific introduction, including good vinegar based pulled pork, a green bean casserole, excellent potato salad, and a sweet yet briny coleslaw that comes without mayo. My husband John in particular really enjoyed the banana pudding!
I Love NY Pizza – With a number of New York City transplants now making Wilmington home, it is a bold statement to say you are offering New York style pizza, but this place comes fairly close with a serviceable slice. From the lines we waited on, they seem to have the formula down and offer a wide array of various slices, perfect for a quick bite for lunch or evening.
Recommendations
1. Spend Time at Wrightsville Beach – They don’t call it one of the best beaches in North Carolina, a state full of excellent beaches for nothing! This is the quintessential beach town offering a few dining establishments, a long fishing pier and miles of glorious powdery beaches fronting the Atlantic Ocean with beautiful residences surrounding the area and ample parking available. If you have access to beach umbrellas, definitely bring them! As most places are residences, you will have a walk to your car and will need to bring gear to make yourself comfortable for your outing. I also recommend a cooler with some cold beverages. The surf here is warm in the summer, but so is the sand and if you don’t bring adequate sunscreen, you may be looking at a serious burn! Prepare accordingly. Try to come during the week as weekends tend to get busy with weekend travelers!
2. Explore the Fascinating History of the Area – Wilmington did not suffer the consequences of some of the damage inflicted on Southern cities during the Civil War, and as a result, its beautiful historic homes remain intact. Each one is more beautiful than the next one and there are a few historic houses worth exploring. As a port city, Wilmington prospered because of its proximity to the Cape Fear River. Manufactured goods were imported, and inland settlers transported produce down the river. For more than 125 years, however, railroading was the city’s chief industry. In 1840 the Wilmington & Weldon Railroad was completed and was the longest continuous rail line in the world at 161 miles long. During its heyday the railroad contributed heavily to the area's commercial and industrial growth and provided jobs and revenue for the local economy. Near the turn of the 20th century several railroads up and down the eastern seaboard, including the Wilmington & Weldon, merged to become the Atlantic Coast Line Railroad, which ultimately moved its headquarters from Wilmington to Jacksonville, FL. Visitors can learn about this rich history by checking out the Wilmington Railroad Museum, which is dedicated to preserving the rich history of the Atlantic Coast Line Railroad and the history of railroading in the southeastern United States.
3. Take a Ride to Southport – Southport is a fishing village located right at the confluence of the Intracoastal Waterway, Cape Fear River and Atlantic Ocean, and as such it makes for a lively and active waterfront with a continual array of ships and yachts plying the waterways. We visited my cousin who lives in this area, and she showed us the sights around town. Definitely check out the Christmas House, a storefront that is a lot of fun, particularly with children, as they offer a lot of candy for sale in addition to ornaments. There are a number of fun restaurants on the waterfront including Frying Pan, Fishy Fishy, and the most famous spot – Provision Company, which is known for an honor system on what is ordered – very refreshing in this day and age! The town has been featured in a number of movies including Safe Haven with Julianne Hough and Domestic Disturbance with Vince Vaughn and John Travolta.
4. Go to One of the Many Breweries – Honestly, this area has so many breweries it was hard to choose which one to go to, but we were fortunate to have Flytrap, one of the best right around the corner from where we were staying. Did you know the Venus Flytrap is found in the wild in only one area in the world and it happens to be the area right near Wilmington? I didn’t either. It’s actually fun to create your own self-guided tour of craft breweries and bottle shops. A few additional breweries to recommend include Ironclad Brewing, Wilmington Brewing Company, and Waterline Brewing Company. Wilmington has not been named one of “America’s Beeriest Beach Towns” for nothing and is listed among the top five places to experience a “beery, beachside getaway” by CraftBeer.com.
5. Relax in a Beautiful Garden Setting – If you are headed over to Wrightsville Beach, a nice detour during your travels is a trip to Airlie Gardens, a beautiful well-kept garden with plenty of paths to follow and benches along the way to stop and enjoy the views. There is a wonderful variety of flowers, shrubs and trees, ponds, and fantastic views of the Cape Fear River. Even in the heat of the summer months, there is a slight breeze and it’s very relaxing and tranquil. It’s a terrific spot for a picnic with friendly staff and a delightful gift shop.
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