Out of a desire to see the sea, John and I made the journey to the le Marche region, a seldom visited area of Italy populated with few tourists. The reason became apparent when we got on the new highway that runs between Umbria and the region – the Apennine mountain range, which basically separates these two areas. It used to be a lengthy journey, but now with the new highway with tunnels running directly through the range, the Adriatic Coast suddenly was within reach!
We arrived first in the town of Civitanova, a seaside village with a distinctive local flavor. It is primarily a fishing town and seaside resort set on sandy beaches with numerous bars and restaurants catering to day trippers. But this was not the seaside village we had in mind in taking our journey, so we traveled a but further to Sirolo, a town situated near Monte Conero. It features a restored medieval town centre, with a little square culminating with a view of the sea and a dramatic cliff drop below.
Lunch in Sirolo was delightful. After so many days of dining on meat, we were happy to enjoy some fresh seafood and we were not disappointed. Our first course consisted of fresh mussels in white wine and a regional specialty, deep fried and breaded olives. Le Marche is covered in olives, which have been growing in this area since the Greeks first brought them to Italy. Large green olives similar to the ones we enjoyed come from this region and are cured in brine to be used in antipastos, with vegetables and in meat dishes. My main course was fresh seared tuna in a light herb sauce made with parsley. The dish was beautiful and looked like a work of art.
John had a seafood pasta which included large fresh prawns in a tomato and white wine sauce. Everything was just what we needed and after so many days of rain, the sun appeared so we knew we made an excellent choice. Our meal ended with a small glass of limoncello, before we hit the road for a ride back to Umbria.
Italy offers much to visitors beyond the well-traveled paths that tourists visit. If you are able to, take a drive past Rome, Florence and Venice and explore the hidden gems like Le Marche.
Restaurant:
Ristorante Terrazzamare Sirolo: a lovely restaurant offering a terrace with a dramatic view of the sea. The seafood is fresh and simply prepared. Friendly staff with great attention to customers.
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