Visiting Edinburgh and Glasgow

I recently had the opportunity to visit Scotland again after a memorable trip there with my husband John over 20 years ago. On that trip, we visited many points throughout the country and John, who is comfortable behind the wheel of a car just about anywhere racked up the miles traveling from parts near and far.

With only one hour between two of Scotland’s biggest cities it is easy to explore these fascinating areas and learn a great deal about history and explore the natural beauty of the Northernmost point of the United Kingdom. Edinburgh is Scotland’s capital city and is known for its beautiful gothic architecture. It is also renowned for heritage, culture, and festivals. Glasgow is known for its parks and green spaces, colorful and quirky locals, entertaining nightlife and thriving music scene. Glasgow is also a great city for foodies, shopping, and a night out!

Admittedly, I wasn’t too excited at first about traveling to Glasgow. When I visited back in 2000, it was still a bit rough around the edges, but time has been kind to the city, and it is starting to really come into its own as a destination worthy of exploration. It was once prosperous as a center of trade and shipbuilding but fell on hard times after much of its wealth dried up. On this particular trip though, I was actually happy to be there. Edinburgh, while lovely, was overrun with tourists and cold! Glasgow, on the other hand, was 20 degrees warmer and filled with Scottish people enjoying themselves on the River Clyde on sunny days and listening to live music at the many pubs lining the streets in Merchant City. I list just a few of the sights worth checking out. If at all possible, I recommend taking a guided tour to the countryside or renting a car as we did to see all of the beauty that Scotland has to offer!

Sights

Edinburgh Castle (Edinburgh) - Edinburgh Castle is one of the oldest fortified places in Europe. With a long rich history as a royal residence, military garrison, prison, and fortress, it is alive with many exciting tales. When you climb Castle Hill, you will walk in the footsteps of soldiers, kings, and queens – and even the odd pirate or two. Pre-booking is essential as the castle sells out quickly each day. The castle is the focal part of the city and a 'must see' if you are visiting Edinburgh.

University of Edinburgh (Edinburgh) – This place of higher learning is one of Scotland's four ancient universities and the sixth-oldest university in continuous operation in the English-speaking world. It is a spot I enjoy visiting if only to pick up a t-shirt or sweatshirt as a souvenir and to see the students scurrying about on the way to classes. It is one of the most prestigious universities in the UK.

Prince Street Gardens (Edinburgh) – This is an area encompassing two adjacent public parks in the center of Edinburgh, lying in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle. The Gardens were created in the 1820s following the long draining of the Nor Loch and building of the New Town, beginning in the 1760s. It is a very pleasant place to walk and to perhaps bring a picnic if the weather allows.

Strolling the Royal Mile (Edinburgh) – This is a beautiful stretch to explore connecting two royal residences (the Castle and the palace of Holyrood House), and is also home to parliaments old and new, law courts, a cathedral and churches, and a vast range of shops, restaurants, cafes, and pubs.

Royal Yacht Britannia (Leith) - Famously described by Queen Elizabeth II as “the one place I can truly relax,” the Royal Yacht Britannia was a home away from home for the royals from her maiden voyage in 1954 until she was decommissioned in 1997. She currently sits in Leith, a buzzing port district of Edinburgh, home to hip creatives and longtime locals. Waterfront seafood bistros and traditional pubs dot the Shore area.

Kelingrove Art Gallery (Glasgow) – This museum opened in 1901 and is a firm favorite with local people and visitors. It has stunning architecture and a family friendly atmosphere. It is fun to explore the 22 galleries and discover everything from art to animals, Ancient Egypt to Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the famous architect. Well worth taking the time to visit.

Glasgow Necropolis (Glasgow) – This may seem like an odd choice for a pilgrimage, but the Necropolis, a Victorian era cemetery is on a low but very prominent hill to the east of Glasgow Cathedral (St. Mungo's Cathedral). Fifty thousand individuals were buried here, however, only a small percentage are named on monuments and not every grave has a stone.

Glasgow Subway (Glasgow) – Glasgow surprisingly has one of the world’s oldest subway systems. Opened in December 1896, it is the third-oldest underground rail transit system in Europe after the London Underground and the Budapest Metro. It is also one of the very few railways in the world with a track running gauge of 4 ft wide. Worth a quick ride on the tiny system if only to experience it.

University of Glasgow (Glasgow) - it is the fourth-oldest university in the English-speaking world and one of Scotland's four ancient universities. Along with the universities of St Andrews, Aberdeen, and Edinburgh, the university was part of the Scottish Enlightenment during the 18th century. I was eager to see it as I am an admirer of Sir George Gilbert Scott, the architect who designed St. Pancras, my favorite train station in London as well as the Albert Memorial. Some say the site is the inspiration for Hogwarts in the Harry Potter series.

Restaurants

Scottish food is generally very fresh and sourced from local farms and nearby bodies of water. Though some are put off by Scotland’s national dish, haggis, it is worth trying. Other Scottish foods to try are Scotch pies, Cullen skink, neeps and tatties, and fresh salmon! In fact, fish should be on your menu since the Atlantic Ocean supplies a copious amount of amazing seafood to Scotland and the entire United Kingdom. On this most recent trip, I visited the following restaurants and eating establishments that I can recommend:

Devils Advocate (Edinburgh)– This delightful wine bar and restaurant is located right off the Royal Mile on the Advocate’s Close, a small alley that leads down to the New Town. It is an atmospheric spot for an evening, particularly if you sit outside. There are many selections of whiskies both local, and from all around Scotland. If you are interested in wine, they have a very nice selection of that as well. For my meal, I had chips (fries) with truffle and cheese, very similar to a poutine and fried fish with curry and coconut, very reminiscent of Thai flavors. If you are interested in charcuterie and cheese though, they have got you covered. It is a great spot and extremely popular, so try to get there early!

Dishoom (Edinburgh) – This is part of a chain primarily based in London that is based on the old Irani cafes that were once in Bombay (Mumbai). It has an all-day menu that is accessible and affordable. One of my favorite items for breakfast is the naan and bacon sandwich, which has cream cheese and tomato chili jam. It is sublime and delicious. I always have it with a hot chai, and it is perfect. For dinner, the Prawn Koliwada, which is fried shrimp served with a side of chutney and the chicken ruby, which arrives in a fragrant, buttery makhani sauce with rice is ideal.

Hanoi Bike Shop (Glasgow) – Bicycles hang from the ceiling in this offbeat canteen located in the West End of town in an alleyway. It feels like a secret den with a delicious and vibrant menu. We had some selections from the Street Food Menu, which included sticky chicken and a few sides of wok-fried greens and sweet potato fritters. My entrée consisted of ginger caramel chicken with coconut rice and beansprouts. My companions all ordered pho and were happy with their choice. The folks who decided to try the “shall we call an ambulance” heat felt it was still fairly mild. It is a fun spot well worth checking out with something for everyone!

Ardnamurchan (Glasgow) – I really enjoyed this spot, although I struggled to pronounce it correctly in the Scottish dialect! It is a casual delightful spot located across from the theater that works to provide Scotland’s best produce to the table. Here you can find traditional haggis or a seafood stew. I opted for a starter of smoked trout and salmon served with brown bread and a dill sauce with a main of venison loin braised in a red wine sauce with potatoes. It was truly great. My dessert was a sticky toffee pudding with candied pecans and vanilla ice cream. This was one of my favorite experiences on my trip and I would easily recommend it. Reasonable with a good vibe in a great location. It is well worth checking out.

The Pot Still(Glasgow) – This is the place for malt whisky in Glasgow if that is your thing. Although I have traveled to Islay, which is one of the most famous places to enjoy whisky in Scotland, for me it is an acquired taste. But I still can enjoy the unique varieties. Here there are over eight hundred if you are looking for a challenge and want to try them all! It has the feel of a traditional old pub and includes live music on the weekends and a fine list of meat pies. Fortunately for me, it was literally right down the street from my hotel, so I didn’t have too far to go! They also have a very nice collection of German beers, including one close to my heart – Andechs from the kloster north of Munich where I was lived and attended school. This is a must-see pub that everyone should visit just once!

Obsession of India (Glasgow) – One of the things I was really looking forward to on my trip to Scotland was the opportunity to have Indian food as often as possible. I am of the opinion that the United Kingdom has some of the best Indian restaurants with the most innovative presentations and fieriest curries. After a lot of research, I landed on this restaurant in Merchant City and made the walk over to that side of town. The staff was courteous and efficient, and the food was delicious. I ordered vegetable pakoras, garlic and coriander naan, and had a black currant and soda to start. As a child, I fell in love living in London with Ribena, the sugary sweet black currant drink found everywhere. The sweetness is tempered when added to sparkling water and it is a very refreshing drink. The meal was rounded out with a traditional chicken tikka masala, which some claim was invented in Glasgow by a Scottish chef. Everything was fresh and well prepared.

Five March (Glasgow) – This spot is a modern, laid-back hangout with a distinct focus on sharing plates, cocktails, and wine. My dining partners largely eat a vegan menu and were delighted with the selections which included crispy cauliflower with lemon pepper and satay mayo. We also enjoyed burrata with grapefruit and corn nibs along with napa cabbage prepared with blue cheese dressing red onion, raisins, and celery – it was very reminiscent of Waldorf salad. We also enjoyed mackerel with beetroot and horseradish espuma. It was delightful sitting outside in the warm summer evening with a beautiful view of a historic tower in the distance.

Recommendations

1. Bring Good Walking Shoes – Walking is a must in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Glasgow has a small subway, one of the oldest in the world, in fact, but it is a limited system, and you will find that you will still need to use your feet to get to some of the places that you will want to see. In Edinburgh, there are quite a few places leading uphill that you may need to traverse. With one dormant volcano, seven hills, clusters of cobbled streets and tantalizing vistas waiting around every bend, it is truly a fabulous place for a wander. Everything is fairly close together and both cities are exceedingly safe, with the exception of the bikers – stay alert!

2. Pack an Umbrella – Given that you are in the United Kingdom, you never know when you might need a brolly (umbrella). Even on a day when it looks like bright sunshine for miles, you might find yourself in an unexpected shower. I always pack a raincoat and my umbrella just in case and when it is truly looking like a wash out (it happens) I bring my rain boots. As my mom wisely said though, she never let the rain dampen her mood – there is always a wonderful museum or pub to bring your spirits back up!

3. Eat Seafood – It’s a well known fact that Scotland has some of the best seafood in the world and although you may be tempted to try the traditional fish and chips, you should also look for amazing smoked salmon, fresh oysters, langoustine, trout, scallops, and even sea urchins. Every morning my hotel offered fresh smoked salmon and I reveled in trying it with my scrambled eggs – it is a terrific treat!

4. Don’t Try to Do It All – On this most recent trip, I encountered a man who I saw each morning in my hotel in the breakfast room and he could barely stand. He was exhausted from his daily forays into the highlands for day trips to see various sights. If you are able, try to slow down and appreciate all that the country has to offer. There are many off the beaten track wonders to behold if you will allow yourself the time to do it.

5. Bring a Sleep Mask – Weirdly, even though you would think I might have remembered this, I failed to recall that in Scotland and in fact, the entire UK, you experience the phenomenon of not experiencing a true night during the summer season. That is, there is a period of brighter light than what we experience in the states. I was ill prepared for this and struggled to sleep since my hotel did not have blackout curtains and I was there for work. With this in mind, I recommend bringing a sleep mask if you need true darkness for sleeping as some of us do!

6. Other Places to Travel to in Scotland:

· Fort William and Ben Nevis: The highest peak in the UK, and a popular Scotland hike you can check off your list along with the lovely town located at its base.

· Orkney Islands: Group of islands off the north coast.

· Oban: A resort town within the Argyll and Bute council area of Scotland.

· Inverness: The largest city and the cultural capital of the Scottish Highlands

· Stirling Castle: One of the largest and most historically and architecturally important castles in Scotland.

· Loch Ness: A large freshwater loch in the Scottish Highlands extending for approximately 37 kilometers southwest of Inverness. Famous for the “monster” (also known as "Nessie"), a cryptid, reputedly a large unknown animal.

· Islay: The southernmost of the Inner Hebrides islands, off the west coast of Scotland. Along with the neighboring island of Jura, it is known for its whisky, made of peat moss.