My relationship with the capital of our nation, Washington, DC, is somewhat complex. On the one hand, I have many happy memories of visiting often with my parents, after all it was only 30 minutes from where I grew up, but on the other, it is tied intrinsically to my work life, and I have more mixed emotions about that.
It is a place that some love to hate. Even transplants who have become successful and met their life partners can’t move away fast enough. What’s the problem? When pressed, they have shared that they are bothered by some of the more stressful aspects of living in a quadrant that for all intents and purposes was a planned city, selected by Washington himself on land not far from where his home, Mount Vernon, proudly stood. Some have mentioned that you have to make plans weeks in advance to do anything with others. I never really thought about this, but there is some truth to this statement. But isn’t that a sign of the times? They also are put off by how some people look over their shoulders when out, looking for more important people than those who they are spending time with at that moment. And in recent years, there have been more challenges to simply getting around due to construction, concerns about terrorism, and the more recent Capitol insurrection. Yes, DC certainly has some challenges, but what city doesn’t these days?
With all of that said, however, one doesn’t have to go too far to find charms and there are many. Coming from the Maryland side, a first-time visitor misses the beauty that beholds those who enter from Virginia. This is not surprising since the land provided for building the capital came from my own fair home state. There is a great deal of history, including some that even connects my hometown, Annapolis, the capital of Maryland, with the capital of the U.S. John Carroll the founder of Georgetown University, and the first bishop and archbishop in the United States, was a relation of Charles Carroll, who lived in Annapolis and was the only Catholic signer of the Declaration of Independence.
I have many favorite activities when I visit DC, a city where I worked for more than 20 years and would like to share a few with you. Please note I am skipping some of the more popular tourist activities including visiting the cherry blossoms at the Tidal Basin or going to the Spy Museum. It’s not that either activity isn’t fun or worthwhile, but these are not the things that spur me to make the trip.
Places to Visit
Union Market – I have been to the area North of Massachusetts Avenue many times, but I still marvel at how changed the area is in just a few short years. It attests to DC’s continued popularity as a center of education and employment, but also, its relationship to the federal government. The market sits in a spot right across the road from Gallaudet University and has an impressive array of offerings both in the market and in the surrounding area. Some of my personal favorites include Aboveground, a fish and chip stall with very authentic sausage rolls and treats from the UK; Salt & Sundry, a unique and fun boutique with lovely jewelry, books, and gifts for everyone; and Neopol, a smoked fish purveyor. Another fun place to check out near the market is A Litteri, an Italian market with an amazing Italian wine selection separated by regions. Definitely stop on your way out of town or into town at the market!
National Arboretum – this spot gets overlooked by many visitors to DC but should be on everyone’s radar. If you ae lucky enough to visit in late April or early May, come to see the azaleas, which boast thousands of blossoms of stunning colors. One of my favorite spots in the park is the Japanese Garden, which has bonsais of up to 380 years old. I recall seeing one there that was a gift to the United States following World War II that survived the atomic bomb. This is a great place for a picnic lunch and one that every family will enjoy.
District Wharf – this gleaming, new waterside development was the toast of the town before COVID-19 hit, with new restaurants, hotels, and a music venue, the Anthem drawing crowds. To me, the real draw here is the traditional Maine Avenue Fish Market, where you can select and take home ultra-fresh seafood and fish or have it cooked to order and eat on site. This is the place I go when I need to find something for a dish that I might not find anywhere else.
Rock Creek Park and the National Zoo – this is probably one of my personal favorite parts of the city and it is certainly a favorite spot for my children. The Zoo is renowned for being free to all visitors, and what a gift it offers. From Giant Pandas from China to Tigers from India and Africa, expect to be impressed by this beautiful park, originally designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (who incidentally designed the neighborhood where I live and Central Park – a very busy man!). The park is an oasis that offers a feeling of being in a wilderness, with hiking and horse trails in abundance. A gorgeous part of the city that must not be missed.
Georgetown - Georgetown is no doubt Washington’s most charming neighborhood. This is where my son Ryan was born at the hospital located at the University. Wander through the cobblestone streets and take in the rich history of the houses on the streets. Check out the famous Exorcist Steps – very steep and scary! Georgetown is a sophisticated area of the city, where strolling is almost always in order. If you have the chance, visit Dumbarton Oaks, a fine federal style home that originally belonged to Sen. William Dorsey of my home state of Maryland. The house is surrounded by a superb, lush garden. It is truly a stunning place, and the flower gardens are renowned in the area as the best.
Visit Museums
The U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum – I have visited museums around the world honoring issues related to the Holocaust, but none were more moving than this engrossing museum that honors the millions murdered by the Nazi government during World War II. This is not an experience for those looking for fun, as it is deeply disturbing and forces a visitor to genuinely consider the horrors of this terrible period in history. I would not recommend this for anyone under 12. You will think about what you have seen for days, and may we all remember so that it never happens again.
National Air & Space Museum – this is reportedly the most visited museum in DC and it’s well worth checking out. If you are a fan of airplanes and all things associated with space travel, this is the place for you. My son Luke absolutely loves it. There are two museums, and both are equally amazing. The original museum located on Independence Avenue has the Spirit of St. Louis, piloted by Charles Lindbergh, while Chuck Yaeger’s Bell X-1, the plane that broke the sound barrier in 1947, can also be viewed. To me, the most awe-inspiring sight though remains the original Wright flyer, the one that started it all with the first flight in Kitty Hawk, NC made by the Wright Brothers from Ohio. The Udvar-Hazy Center is the second Smithsonian Museum devoted to air and space travel and it’s equally as impressive. Located in Chantilly, VA, this museum is huge and has a wealth of historic items including the Enola Gay, the plane that dropped the first atomic bomb on Hiroshima and the space shuttle Discovery amongst many other items. If you visit any museum during your trip, let it be either of the air and space museums, which are truly impressive.
National Cryptologic Museum – This museum is not in DC, it is located at Fort Meade, Md., but must be recommended over the touristy and somewhat kitschy International Spy Museum, located at L’Enfant Plaza. As the child of two people who worked in real life for the intelligence community, I can assure you that this is the real deal and provides information that educates visitors about the role of cryptology in shaping history. Although it appears that no one knew what the adjacent National Security Agency’s mission was (at least according to Edward Snowden), it’s all detailed here. As an adult, it was the perfect introduction to understanding my family’s work. Here you can see reconnaissance aircraft used for secret missions, numerous working World War II German Enigma machines (two of them are available for visitors to try out), and a Navy Bombe used to break it.
Other Must-See Experiences
Marvel at Monuments at Night: D.C. is home to many monuments and memorials, including the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial, the Jefferson Memorial, and the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial. They are particularly stunning when viewed at night when there is a full moon. This is when I marvel at the beauty of the city and the overall design of Pierre L’Enfant, the French American military engineer, who designed the basic plan for Washington.
National Archives – this museum houses some of the nation’s most important documents including the Constitution, Declaration of Independence, Bill of Rights, and a offers a copy of the Magna Carta. I didn’t think it would be so moving to see these documents in person, but it is and reminds us as Americans of how far we came “in order to make a more perfect union.”
Restaurants
Below are a few of my personal favorite restaurants in the city. DC, like many other cities in the country, has been hard hit by the global pandemic, but these stalwarts are still surviving and are worth visiting if you have the opportunity to visit the city.
Menomale - this is probably my favorite pizza in town located in Brookland near the Catholic University. These are amazing Neapolitan pizza pies. Ingredients come from the Campania region in Southern Italy, where my grandmother Venturella came from as a young woman. Neapolitan pizzas take a 90-second trip in a wood-fired oven heated to 900 degrees, producing an airy, charred crust. I love the quattro Stagioni (four seasons) pie!
Supra (Shaw) – this is DC’s first Georgian restaurant, where dishes like khachapuri (a traditional cheese filled bread) are served alongside kebabs, and plenty of orange wine. It’s a great place to go with a group and it’s a unique fun experience!
Thip Khao (Columbia Heights) – this was my first experience ever enjoying Laotian food and it was not my last. I love ordering off their “jungle menu” which is full of dishes with fermented fish sauce, a heavy dose of chiles, offal, and cured meats. My personal favorite items are the crispy chili glazed wings, and the fiery Lao papaya salad. I took my sister with me on my last visit, since she is adventurous, and she loved it.
Masseria (Ivy City) – this is a special occasion spot that should not be missed. Nick Stefanelli resides over a kitchen producing Puglia-influenced dishes including seafood linguine and many other delicious offerings. We took my dad here for his 80th birthday and the chef personally visited the table and offered champagne to my dad. It was a wonderful experience.
Stellina (Ivy City) – my mom absolutely adores this pizza and pasta place run by an Italian expat with real knowledge of great ingredients and excellent cocktails. Try the cacio e pepe pizza – you will not be disappointed. Another standout for us is the fried artichokes – really done well and truly delicious.
St. Anselm (Ivy City) – for the biscuits alone, I would suggest checking out this intriguing steak house run by Marjorie Meek-Bradley, a former contestant on Top Chef. They are served with pimento cheese, but my preference runs to the honey butter. I love the use of some parts of fish, including the salmon collar, which is deliciously roasted and served aside a butter lemon bath that is to die for. There are several inventive cocktails that should be tried. It’s a great spot for a weekend brunch with friends.
Marcel’s - This is the kind of restaurant that you’d expect to find on Pennsylvania Avenue: exquisite food, beautifully served in a sumptuous dining room by adept professionals. Chef Robert Wiedmaier’s Flemish-inflected French fare manages the classical balance of taste and textures: subtle versus sharp-flavored, savory versus sweet, generous versus leaving you wanting more. Boudin blanc with black mushroom truffle purée and truffle madeira sauce is exemplary, and a gratin of mussels with Chimay, salsify and bacon are a blast of intense flavors. The servers get extra points for friendliness: even if you’re not one of the place’s traditional, old-money clients, they’ll still treat you as if you were.
Convivial – This is one of my favorite restaurants in the city. It has been churning out French classics for years and is such a stalwart, that I think sometimes people forget about it. One of my favorite dishes is the poireaux vinaigrette, which is a dish of steamed leeks in a mustard dressing. It sounds strange but is delicious. They also make a wonderful boeuf bourguignon and even hare and duck. This is a restaurant where a great deal of skill and effort are apparent in every dish. Get the celebration cake if you want a real surprise!
Stable – In the cold winter months, there really isn’t any place I would rather spend time than this establishment which features Swiss fondue and raclette. It’s such a cozy and welcoming place to be that you might never want to leave! It’s fun to go with a group and try raclette, which is melted cheese over cornichons, potatoes, and sausages. A fabulous experience!
Other Wonderful Spots
Baked & Wired – This is my absolute favorite place to buy cupcakes and other baked goods in DC and pretty much anywhere else. These are the real deal with multiple delicious flavors especially the strawberry which has fresh strawberries right in the batter. If you can swing it, get one of their extra-large cups of coffee and a wedge of their quiche!
Eastern Market – Like Baltimore, DC’s sister city to the North, there were a few historic markets that are still in existence and Eastern Market is one of my favorite places in the city. It’s a great place to visit on a lively weekend when there is a lot of energy and stalls are set up offering clothing, jewelry, and books and other items. I love the creperie where you can get sweet or savory flavors. On a nice day, it’s fun to walk from the market to Barracks Row and browse in the shops. One of my favorite neighborhoods in town.
Recommendations
1) Seek Out the Experiences that Matter -everyone wants to see the White House and the monuments and check out the Smithsonian’s Air & Space Museum. These are all things I think a first-time visitor should do but try to go beyond the norm and find the things that are a bit more meaningful.
2) Cross the River – Get over to Northern Virginia and see the moving Iwo Jima Memorial and Arlington National Cemetery. Did you know actors Charles Durning, the winner of a Silver Star, Bronze Star and Purple Heart is buried here? Or Lee Marvin, another decorated World War II hero? For me, visiting the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is a singular experience honoring all fallen American service personnel who are ‘Known but to God.’ You can also see the eternal flame burning at the gravesite of President John F. Kennedy, who was assassinated in 1963. Buried close by are First Lady Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis and two of their four children who died as infants. Additionally, Kennedy’s brothers Robert F. Kennedy and Edward Kennedy are also buried nearby. There are more than just gravesites to visit, however. Eden Center may look like an ordinary strip mall in Falls Church, VA, however, it is a premier destination for Vietnamese cuisine and specialties. I also enjoy visiting Old Town Alexandria, and highly recommend its nostalgic charm and shopping options.
3) Don’t Visit in Summer – As someone who grew up in the area, I was always amazed by the crowds of people who visited DC in the hottest months. It’s stifling hot and humid, and there are thunderstorms on many afternoons. Crowds are out in full force, making sightseeing an anxious-ridden experience of long lines and crowded exhibits. Who needs that? The best time to visit, if you can swing it, is in the fall through early November, when the weather is generally moderate, and the crowds have dispersed. Springtime is beautiful, of course, with the fabled cherry blossoms and other flowers blooming like crazy, but it’s not as warm as one might expect, and hordes of school groups have arrived. Pick fall!
4) Walk or Bike the C&O Canal – I recently had the pleasure of doing this myself last Fall with my son Ryan and I really enjoyed it. We saw turtles and hawks and generally got a workout walking along the trail, but we did go as far as Cumberland, Maryland, where the trail officially ends 184 miles North!
5) Find the City’s Boundary Stones – this is really cool as these are the original stones that marked D.C.’s original boundaries. It was the early 1790s when the administration of George Washington put them in, one mile apart, to mark off the boundaries of the 100 square miles of the District of Columbia. Forty of them in all. One side of each stone says either Virginia or Maryland, the other side says, "The United States," because D.C. didn't yet have its name. Thirty-six of the original 40 stones are still in place, Powers says. The others are gone for various reasons. D.C. was originally diamond-shaped, 10 miles by 10 miles, until 1846, when the Virginia portion pulled out, trying to protect its slave trade. Of course, my own fair home state of Maryland is now the lone provider of the original land for our nation’s capital, and it is very intriguing to find these relics. I have only seen two but intend to find more in coming years!
6) Check Out the Embassies: Travel abroad without leaving the city. As the nation’s capital, D.C. is home to many embassies — many of which open their doors to residents and visitors for cultural events, food, and more. My personal favorites are the House of Sweden, the Canadian Embassy, with its spectacular view of the Capitol, the French Embassy which houses a wonderful cafe, and the British Embassy, with its famous pub. When I worked in agriculture, I was able to visit several receptions and enjoyed wine at the Embassy of Columbia, savory snacks at the Embassy of the Netherlands and an interesting array of appetizers at the Embassy of New Zealand (there were mini hot dogs served with tomato ketchup!). I always felt very fortunate to be able to visit such intriguing places and to meet people from around the world based in our city.
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