Everyone has an opinion about pizzerias in New York City. Some people say the pizza made in New York is so good because there are minerals present in the tap water derived from the Catskills that is used to create the dough’s characteristic texture and flavor. Others believe that longevity may be the secret since the first pizzeria in the U.S., Lombardi’s, located over in Nolita on Prince Street, has been slinging pies for well over 100 years. Whatever the case may be, the people making the pies in New York seem to know what they are doing and as my husband John, a Bronx-born native says “you can’t really open a bad pizza place because no one would go, since there are too many quality pies out there to frequent a subpar place!” To me, the best pizza is one I think about well after I’ve eaten it and I want to have immediately again.
Starting at the beginning of the time when I met John in 1992, we started trying pizza places all across the city and have stacked up a pretty formidable list of what many people say are some of the best pizzerias in the city. All pizza is relative, New York pizza double so. But here’s what I know. I love pizza. I have had some of the best in the country and in Italy where my family was originally from. The truth is nothing holds a candle to what I have had in New York. Truly. Last week, we went to one that I have been trying to get to for a number of years now, L&B Spumoni Gardens, and had a slice of their famous Sicilian squares. It was quite an experience and I’ve added it to the list of places I will be returning to as soon as I can.
Here in no particular order are the places we have visited with my notes along with some places we haven’t been to as of yet that I hope to visit in the near future! I’m sure John is going to faint when he sees this list, but with our son attending college in the city, we should be able to knock out a few more places on another trip! Special thanks to my friend and former colleague Jamie, who I had a lovely discussion with on pizza recently. There is nothing that brings people together more than reflecting on a delicious slice of pizza with just the right amount of cheese and sauce and the perfect crust.
Brooklyn
DiFara – This is a famous pizza shop located in the Midwood section of Brooklyn that was once run by Dom De Marco, who passed away a few years ago. He spent over 53 years perfecting his pizza and no pie left the building without him touching it. When we visited many years ago for my sister’s birthday (the only way I could get John to drive so far out of the way!) there were only three slices available for four of us. After hearing people whining to Dom about waiting for two hours, we decided to take what we could get. Of course, Ryan who was only four at the time wanted his own slice, so I only got a bite or two. What I tasted was good, but not great. I recall we were all disappointed about not being able to have a full pie. I did appreciate the fresh basil that Dom cut himself. I haven’t been back in many years and as it is not the easiest place to get to and Dom has passed away, it will probably be some time.
Juliana’s – Famous for being owned by the original owners of Patsy Grimaldi’s a pizza shop located under the Brooklyn Bridge, Juliana’s has a thin crust that is turned out from a coal fire oven that is the first commissioned in New York in over 50 years. If this pizza was made anywhere else, it would be the best in town, but because it is in New York, it is merely average to good and that is totally fine for the many people visiting the sights and sounds of Brooklyn. This is a pleasant area to explore and if you are able, I highly recommend checking out DUMBO, which has gorgeous views of the New York skyline. A ride on the carousel is a must!
L&B Spumoni Gardens – Our most recent stop on the pizza circuit, L&B, is legendary for its’ Sicilian slices which are unlike any I have ever had. If you order from the window, you can only get plain cheese slices, which is okay because on their own, and in all their fine simplicity they are light as a feather. The pizza consists of a layer of cheese that is on a focaccia-like bubbly crust covered with tangy sublime tomato sauce. I ordered two slices and turned them over a few times trying to figure out how the crust which appears to be thick could be so light. It’s honestly a miracle and someone seriously knows what they are doing. I was half joking (not really) about trying to get into the back of the house to see how they make the dough. John wasn’t in the mood for pizza and ordered a veal parmesan sub, which was also very good, although he balked at paying an extra $7.99 for broccoli rabe, which I think would have been very good to add. On my next visit, I hope to order a full pie with pepperoni or vodka sauce and bring my hungry boys. The spumoni was also delicious and was difficult to determine in terms of its origins. It tasted like a cross between a gelato and Italian ice. Either way, it was Sicilian of that I could be sure. Gravesend, where this shop is located is very much a Sicilian area with ravioli shops, Italian pastries, and a famous very authentic Sicilian restaurant. I’m definitely getting back here.
Totonno’s – John and I have visited this shop on a few occasions as it is fairly easy to access off the Belt Parkway in Brooklyn, which is on the way out to Long Island, where many of his family members live. The two sisters that run it are interesting characters and kept the restaurant closed during Covid, which probably kept some people away since it was prolonged even after many other restaurants opening. The crust here is thin and crispy. The shop was originally opened by someone who worked at the first ever pizza shop Lombardi’s in Manhattan. That history is apparent in every bite. I love the historic feel of the shop and it’s Coney Island location. The attitudes of the sisters, Cookie and Antoinette, can be a bit much at times since they are direct and not always customer facing, but it’s a fun stop.
Bronx
Trattoria Zero Otto Nove – Although this restaurant has expanded to a few additional locations in Armonk, Manhattan, and Tuckahoe (which I have also visited), it’s the original Arthur Avenue location that is my favorite and is well worth checking out. With our son Ryan attending college in the area, we get over that way a few times a year. They turn out Neapolitan wood fired oven pizzas which are light and fluffy with first rate ingredients. My only complaint is that the toppings are not always what I want. For example, they have smoked mozzarella, butternut squash and pancetta pie. When we tried the pizza, we had a broccoli rabe and sausage pie, which I enjoy, but as a purist, sometimes I want some simplicity. They serve many other excellent items in the restaurant which I highly recommend.
Manhattan
Emily – John and I visited Emily after a very sweaty and long walk around Lower Manhattan. We needed something refreshing to drink and had no idea we had walked into a famous spot known for Detroit style pizzas and delicious burgers served on pretzel buns. We sat at the bar and immediately noticed that the person next to us ordered the burger. It looked amazing. We also started noticing the pizzas coming out of the wood-fired oven with unusual toppings- one example, the Emily is a pizza topped with mozzarella, truffle cheese, pistachios, and honey. But there are also wings (spicy, sticky, and sweet) and a lot of salads if you are into that kind of thing. Emily has expanded to more cities beyond New York, with a few locations now in DC. I was dubious about Detroit-style pizza until I tried it. It is excellent. The cheese crisping on the sides of the crust is genius!
Lombardi’s – This is the first pizza shop in the United States, and it still has the original coal fire oven dated 1905 to prove it. The management is more than happen to show visitors the oven if you ask and I was pretty thrilled, I must say. I went here with my parents many years ago and I enjoyed it, although there are now other pizzerias that are turning out more innovative pizzas in town. If you want a solid Neapolitan style pizza and want a dash of history in the mix, this is the place to come. The margherita is the pie to get here.
Joe & Pat’s – I wanted to visit the original on Staten Island, but as that was out of reach, we settled for the new location in East Village not too far down the street from Tompkins Square Park. Still reeling from learning about the tragedy of the General Slocum shipping disaster (killing more people in the city until 9/11) after seeing the monument, we sat down to enjoy the pizza which I had been hearing great things about for years. It lived up to its heady expectations. It was very reminiscent of Rubirosa, which was not at all surprising, given that family members who run this place are related to the owners. It is a very good pizza and it’s curious that throngs go to Rubirosa and somehow miss this place. I highly recommend checking it out. It has the same thin crackle crust that Rubirosa offers also with a tie dye offering if you so desire.
John’s of Bleecker Street – I visited this one first with my parents on a trip to New York, which is surprising since neither my mom or dad were big fans of pizza. It is a solid shop that doesn’t offer slices and has an old school interior with graffiti laden walls. While “One Bite Pizza’s” Dave Portnoy gives this one of his highest ratings, I must disagree. I found the pizza unremarkable, but certainly better than anything I might find at home. It would be the best to me anywhere but in this city, although I greatly respect its heritage and love the fact that I can get in when I want as opposed to the insane lines of some.
Motorino’s – This was the toast of the town many years ago, so I made sure I took my kids when they were fairly young to this hipster location on the Lower East Side. They are famous for of all things a brussels sprouts pie, which as you can imagine was not a winner with my husband John who thought I was crazy ordering it. The New Yorker has a point. The dough is excellent, and the Neapolitan pies earned rave reviews, but as an Italian American, I think I will stick with the red sauce traditional pies I love!
Prince Street Pizza – Known for a Sicilian thick squared slice of pizza with cupped pepperoni, it has a chewy crunchy crust with a hint of sweetness in the sauce. The first time I waited in line and had it with my son Luke, he accidentally dropped the box on the street. Even destroyed, it was so good, we didn’t care. John is not a fan because he felt it was very greasy, but to me, that is what makes it so good. You will know you are in the right area when you are walking down Prince Street from the long lines that form.
Rubirosa – This restaurant is probably my favorite pizzeria in New York. My son Luke shares my love. The only challenge is getting in since it is insanely popular. On my last visit to New York on my own, I went when it opened and took a seat at the bar. I order my favorite pie – a half tie dye with vodka sauce and pesto and a honey pie – mozzarella, tomato sauce, pork soppressata and spiced honey. The crust defies logic. It is paper thin. I have turned it over many times trying to figure it out. It’s almost like a cracker – which is selling it short. The main thing is right after you eat it, you don’t feel heavy. I ordered a whole pie for myself and nearly ate it all, which is saying something since I barely eat bread these days. It’s that good. The owners are part of the same family that owns Joe & Pat’s. If you can’t get into this place, try Joe & Pat’s in either Manhattan or Staten Island, where it originated. It's almost as good.
Sauce Pizza – As an avid viewer of “One Bite Pizza” reviews, I saw this newcomer featured on the show and that it received a generous rating. That caught my attention, so right after we had pizza at Joe & Pat’s just a few doors down, we went ahead and tried Sauce. Of course, the interesting host Dave Portnoy went back and rescored it after he felt “trashed” in an article and brought it down, but I think his original score is probably right. It’s a solid pie. They sell whole pies and slices, and it reminded me endearingly of the circa 1970s pizza parlors that we used to frequent in my hometown, Severna Park, like Buzzy’s with the jukeboxes and rock music blaring. I still fondly remember those places and this blast from the past delivered. The pizza is a thin crust with a nice balance of cheese and sauce. Very traditional NYC slice just the way I like it.
Scarr’s – This is my second favorite pizza in the city and it’s a newcomer run by a man Scarr Pimentel who is very serious about his pies. Scarr actually mills his own flour. Not many people can say they are doing that. He feels by taking that extra step, he is creating something more meaningful, and I feel he has a point after tasting his works of art. The crust is fantastic, light and a little tangy with no puddles of grease. The shop has expanded in recent years and is now much larger. It has a retro vibe which I love with orange booths, and I love that they place Mike’s Hot Honey and other seasonings at the tables. The Hotboi is my favorite with hot honey, jalapenos, and pepperoni. I also like a grandma slice, not going to lie, which features the sauce front and center. They really know what they are doing here, and the lines prove it.
NY Pizza Suprema – This spot right near Penn Station gets a lot of traffic from locals and tourists alike. It’s a classic slice shop that opened in 1964 using gas fueled ovens to make the pies. My favorite thing about this shop is that you still see people twirling the dough in the air – which to me is authentic. It has a nice char on the underside of the crust, which I look for everytime and the types of slices offered are boundless. You can find burrata pizza, hot honey, fig, and chicken parmesan, but the real test is the excellence of a plain slice of cheese, just like the One Bite Pizza Reviews run by Dave Portnoy are looking for in each visit. When I went with my sons Ryan and Luke, there was a grandmother at the till taking the cash. I loved it. Very old school and just like the shops my parents used to take us to in Baltimore run by Italian immigrants who were like family.
Places We Need to Visit
This is not ranked in any particular order, but these are the places I have penciled into my mind that I want to try at some point soon. At the top without question are L’Industrie and Mama’s Too. If I can get there, I would love to try Lucali, although waiting for several hours might prove difficult. If Beyonce and Jay-Z can, I can too though! John says we can go to Jersey City sometime, so I’m excited to get to Razza which I have been reading about for years and looks phenomenal.
Best Pizza (Brooklyn)
Denino’s (Staten Island)
Lee’s Tavern (Staten Island)
Lucali (Brooklyn)
Lucia of Soho (Manhattan)
Louie & Ernie’s (Bronx)
L’Industrie (Brooklyn/Manhattan)
Mama’s Too (Manhattan)
Ops (Brooklyn)
Razza (Jersey City, NJ)
Roberta’s (Brooklyn)
I would be remiss if I did not mention that Long Island, NY also has some amazing pizza. John is originally from the Bronx but grew up in Hicksville and there is a wonderful pizzeria there called Raimo’s. I first had the pizza there when I was at his grandparent’s house and it had mushrooms, my least favorite topping, all over it. Guess what? I had it and I have been eating mushrooms ever since. That’s what is so great about pizza. It brings people together. It’s simple, yet complex. And it even makes you try something you wouldn’t give a second thought to and love it.
Comments