This particular passage is dedicated to my dear friend Jill and her parents Bobby and Linda.
My first trip to New Orleans came courtesy of my dear friend Jill, a native of the city, who invited me to visit her and her family for a fun filled odyssey of adventure. During those action-packed days we visited the French Quarter, a plantation on River Road, the Superdome, and countless eateries. I remember it like it was yesterday with great fondness and appreciation for the generosity of Jill’s parents Linda and Bobby.
A recent trip was a very quick one to take my son on a visit to yet another college but reminded me of what makes the city great. With round the clock nightlife, a vibrant live music scene, and an amazing singular cuisine reflecting a melting pot of French, African and American cultures, there is something to draw everyone. There is also an inherent resilience among the people who live here. They have endured numerous hurricanes and weather-related calamities, yet nothing seems to stop them from being upbeat. They live in a city where it is estimated that at least half of residents live below sea level. But the mantra of laissez les bons temps rouler (let the good times roll) is felt in abundance.
Many people come and simply stay in the French Quarter and see nothing else. While the 300-year-old French Quarter is certainly worth visiting and deserves its distinction as one of America’s best loved tourist destinations, there is plenty of life outside of the 125-block quarter. Instead of making a beeline downtown, venture out and explore some of the unique offerings beyond the quarter, where you will be pleasantly rewarded.
My recollection of that first trip has often guided where I have traveled in the years that followed. I also would be remiss if I did not give shout out to another dear friend, Heather, who has taken me shopping on Magazine Street and to Audubon Park where we visited the Zoo with our kids. And who could forget what was probably the best po-boy of my life at Parkway Bakery? Thank you, Heather for all these amazing trips and for showing a visitor the way!
If you have time to make two stops on your trip to New Orleans, in addition to the French Quarter, can I offer some suggestions? Visit the beautiful Garden District, where you will find oak-shaded streets lined with a diverse mix of homes, from single-story cottages to the grand historic mansions and lavish gardens of St. Charles Avenue. It’s a stunning place and a wonderful experience no matter what time of year you are there. And everyone should be sure to visit Frenchmen Street just once to enjoy the most consistently musical stretch of asphalt in New Orleans. Its venues offer an array of live performances ranging from traditional jazz to blues to reggae and rock.
Things I Love
Having a Shave Ice at Hansen’s or Plum Street – New Orleans summers are very hot, and these two shave ice shops are just what you need for a refreshing break. Plum Street serves their shave ice right out of Chinese food containers and the selection of flavors is limitless. Hansen’s offers an array of flavors like grapefruit and basil or fresh blueberries with sage. There are always lines, so plan ahead and try to get to these spots early. I made a special trip with my boys who thought I was crazy spending so much money for a cab ride, but they saw my point when they enjoyed their treat – heaven!
Boudin – One of the things I begged Jill and her family to let me try was boudin, a loose mix of ground pork, rice, onions, and seasonings wrapped in casing and steamed. This special sausage has its roots in France, just like the Acadians who live in Louisiana. I recall Jill’s parents Bobby and Linda being really surprised that I would want to try it, but I’m 50% Sicilian, this is not too different than some of the things I grew up eating. Sometimes it is served in the form of deep fried and breaded balls as you might find at Donald Link’s Cochon or Toups Meatery. But for the real deal, you can drive to Lafayette, in the heart of Cajun country or one of the places where locals go (I was lucky enough to tag along with Jill and family) just outside of the city.
Frozen Daiquiris – One of my most happy memories from my first trip to New Orleans was at the airport when Jill met me carrying a frozen daiquiri in a special bag to keep it cold and icy. I couldn’t believe it. Barely off the plane and I already was having a wonderful time enjoying a frosty and delicious beverage. I kept looking around expecting the police to come and arrest me! But open containers are the norm in this fabulous city. Another surprise was visiting the drive through daiquiri stand where we bought Jungle Juice and Strawberry Colada. I seriously could not believe it! But these are not for tourists. The people of Louisiana enjoy them every day and they are a wonderful way to cool off in the intense summer heat. Located mainly in strip malls and suburbs, this is one experience everyone has to try once!
Cocktails – New Orleans is particularly famous for cocktails and inventing some famous libations including the Sazerac, Ramos Gin Fizz, and the Vieux Carre to name just a few. Over the years and during several visits I have enjoyed a Pimm’s Cup at Napoleon House. On this most recent visit, we stayed in Freret, a neighborhood not too far from St. Charles Avenue and we visited Cure. Never mind that we had our underage teenage son with us. We made sure he enjoyed a special fancy mocktail. We really enjoyed our respite during one of the hottest weeks of the year. The space is gorgeous, the cocktail list extensive, and the staff is extremely attentive to the craft. Another space I highly recommend is the Sazerac Bar in the Roosevelt Hotel, which is where Jill had her gorgeous wedding. Apparently, it was a favorite of Governor Huey Long and you can almost feel his ghost enjoying the scene nearby. One thing everyone must do without fail, however, is to have a bloody mary. I am not so sure why I was surprised but without a doubt the best Bloody I have ever had was in New Orleans. And why not? The citizens understand flavor better than most. But I wasn’t expecting it to be at the airport bar and neither was John!
Beignets – Pretty much everyone who comes to New Orleans ends up visiting Café du Monde at some point. Who doesn’t love a fried piece of dough covered in powdered sugar? Of course, it must be accompanied by a hot cup of chicory café au lait – heaven. My son Ryan was disappointed on our recent trip that we wouldn’t be going into the French Quarter, but we were able to enjoy it at the airport of all places, where a kiosk was doing swift business at 4:30 in the morning!
Music – On that first trip so long ago, I had the pleasure of witnessing an impromptu performance in the streets of the French Quarter of a band filling the air with the sounds of sweet melodies. It was awesome and I have never forgotten it! The music of New Orleans assumes various styles of music which have often been borrowed from earlier traditions. The city is particularly known for its strong association with jazz music and is universally considered to be the birthplace of the genre. The best places to catch performances are the annual Jazz & Heritage Festival, which takes place in the Fair Grounds and usually has some top tier acts. Preservation Hall on Bourbon Street is always a hit but also visit the Mother-In-Law Lounge on Claiborne Avenue, Rock-N-Bowl in Mid-City, the Maple Leaf Uptown and Vaughn’s in the Bywater. These local dives and music venues will keep you dancing all night. My personal favorite place to go is to Frenchmen Street, the main artery of the Marigny neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter and take in the vibrant blocks of cafes, music clubs and restaurants.
Restaurants
Commander’s Palace – I finally had a chance to visit this 100-year-old restaurant famous throughout the world for introducing us to Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme when I was on a business trip a few years ago and dined with my colleague from Australia, Albert. Thankfully, he was very adventurous and interested in enjoying good food, so he was a terrific companion for this memorable meal. This is where you come to experience a level of Southern hospitality and service that has mostly gone out of style. The greatest bargain is at lunchtime during the week when martinis are on special at $.25! If you have ever wanted to try turtle soup, this is the place to try it!
Bayona – On a trip a few years ago with my parents and the kids to New Orleans, my husband John surprised me with a reservation at this romantic spot in the French Quarter. It has a beautiful garden that feels a million light years away from the folks enjoying the limelight a few blocks away on Bourbon Street. Garlic soup is one item that will probably never leave the menu and the duck is outstanding and perfectly cooked. This is a place to reserve for a special occasion and to savor every minute.
Galatoire’s – This is an old school bistro that dates to 1905 and has the recipes to match. You can almost feel the history seeping through every crevice. The place to be is downstairs in the boisterous dining room with the white tablecloths. This is where many regulars congregate, and you will see families who have come here for generations. I recall bringing my kids here right off of Bourbon Street. I have never seen their eyes so big! They loved the shrimp remoulade and fried oysters and bacon brochette. More than anything, Galatoire’s is an experience that transports you back to another time when things were more genteel, and people dressed for dinner.
Antoine’s – Before I even knew anything about New Orleans, I knew of Antoine’s, which appeared without fail in the Folger’s Ads that ran in the 1970s. I knew it must have been a fancy restaurant and therefore, it was top on my list of places to visit when it came time to make the trip to the fair city. It appears in one of my favorite movies, Mississippi Gambler, with Tyrone Power and Piper Laurie. This is the place where oysters Rockefeller was invented and it’s one of the oldest restaurants in the United States. A worthwhile experience and history lesson for everyone.
Atchafalaya – A fabulous place for brunch in a town known for the occasion. It’s a madhouse and you will see why when you finally get your table. Crowded with both locals and visitors – everyone loves the Creole creations like eggs Tremé (boudin cake with poached eggs, popcorn crawfish, and hollandaise sauce), and particularly the DIY bloody mary bar, and jumping live jazz on Saturday and Sunday.
Broussard’s – This is the spot where my friend Jill had her amazing rehearsal dinner the day prior to her wedding. Can I just tell you how happy John and I were to attend this fabulous event? Without question, the best wedding I ever went to, including my own! The courtyard is stunning, and the food is also outstanding. Dishes like crispy shrimp toast with pickled okra slaw; Creole crab croquettes; and broiled redfish with a rosemary and mustard crust are amazing and should be leisurely enjoyed with a cocktail!
Mandina’s – This is on the list because it is the favorite restaurant of Jill’s parents Bobby and Linda, so that means it is very good. The dish to have here is the trout almondine, but don’t hesitate to order the other excellent items on the menu including shrimp rémoulade, the crawfish cakes, or the turtle soup. Excellent étouffée, po'boys, fried seafood, and pastas are also on the menu. I have heard that this is where Harry Connick Jr dines when he is in town.
Port of Call – Jill is going to think I have a mind that is a steel trap, but I don’t forget a meal and this place is where I recall we had an incredible burger and enjoyed an insanely cheap deal for ladie’s night of $1.00 for drinks. No joke. I nearly fainted! That was many, many years ago of course, but it’s a fun place and if you are seeking fun this is a place to go!
Recommendations
1. Visit the World War II Museum – New Orleans might not be the first place you think of when you consider the events of World War II, but the founders, Stephen E. Ambrose and Gordon H. "Nick" Mueller were historians with a deep appreciation for this event in history immersed in academic life at the University of New Orleans. The result of this partnership was the creation of a museum that would tell the world about the millions of Americans who came together in the 1940s to defend freedom and democracy. The museum’s exhibits cover the epic and global scale of the war that changed the world, in a voice that is intimate and personal. In fact, some of the docents at the museum are military veterans who had family members who fought in the war and are able to share their personal stories. This is an experience that takes time and is light years away from the usual experiences one travels to New Orleans to enjoy, but it is one that you will remember and cherish in the years to come.
2. Go to Magazine Street – This atmospheric street is perfect for a leisurely afternoon walk where you can enjoy some of the city’s best vintage, art, clothing, and furniture stores. Noteworthy of this shopping district is the number of small, locally owned boutiques that fill the long stretch of Magazine Street between Audubon Park and Jackson Avenue. For unique, local goods to take home, don’t miss NOLA Boards, Tchoup Industries, and The White Roach. One of my favorite experiences is going to Casamento’s, an old school seafood restaurant where an order of charbroiled oysters is most definitely in order. For this world-famous dish, chefs take fresh gulf oysters and cook them over a flame grill (with plenty of butter, cheese, and seasonings), creating oysters that are uniquely juicy, smoky, and steamed. Make sure to check this wonderful spot out!
3. Check Out the Creepy, But Beautiful Cemeteries – On my first visit, I brought a tour book and asked my very accommodating hosts if we could visit the iconic tombs and above-ground burial systems I had seen on the ride into town. I was very eager to see the grave of voodoo queen Marie Laveau in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Naturally, my wonderful hosts were not too eager to check this out, but relented and took me to this site, where some of the most classic ornate stonework exists. Admittedly, it was rather eerie, even during the daylight. These are not viewed as the safest places in the city (which may have been why my friends were not so excited to visit) but are ideal for booking a comprehensive tour with safety in numbers. This will be one of the most memorable things you will do in town.
4. Take a Ride on the Charles Avenue Streetcar - One of the most scenic, historic, and fun ways to get around New Orleans is to take the streetcar. The St. Charles Streetcar Line has been running since 1835 and is the oldest continuously operating line in the world. Written about in countless stories from “A Streetcar Named Desire” to “Interview with a Vampire,” this historic streetcar rolls down oak-covered St. Charles Avenue past Tulane and Loyola Universities and all the way down to Canal Street and the French Quarter. It’s the ideal way to get around some of the historic neighborhoods and it’s only $1.25! If you’re feeling particularly studious, you’ll want to get off at the Tulane/Loyola stop. This is the best way to access the two university campuses, where you can find enthusiastic college students and a wealth of historic buildings. Across St. Charles Avenue from the universities is Audubon Park, home to walking/biking paths, a playground, a golf course, and more. This is the perfect place to hop off the streetcar and enjoy a picnic lunch under the shade of an oak tree. And if you should desire something a little bit heartier, hold out for the end of the line for the Camellia Grill, a landmark diner serving up the best chili omelets the city has to offer.
5. Enjoy Brunch at Brennan’s – One of my personal favorite experiences ever was taking my kids to Brennan’s to enjoy brunch, a tradition that has endured for over 70 years. This is where bananas foster was invented, a concoction of bananas and vanilla ice cream, with a sauce made from butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, dark rum, and banana liqueur. In all honesty, the first time you try it, you will feel like you have died and gone to heaven. But Eggs Hussarde is another original that everyone must try once – essentially eggs benedict with tomatoes and marchand de vin sauce, made of mushrooms, red wine, and beef stock. It may sound odd, but it is absolutely delicious like everything else on the menu of this fine establishment. Other items to sample include eggs sardou with crispy artichokes and soft-scrambled duck eggs alongside grilled country bread. My kids still talk about this experience many years later.
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