I traveled to Newport when I visited my friend from high school attending Providence College as a young twenty-something. When my sister announced she was moving there, it was an opportunity to reconnect with the other town many know as the “sailing capital of America.” Of course, I live in Annapolis, another town known for sailing and home to the U.S. Naval Academy.
The difference between Newport and Annapolis was on display pretty much from the very first day. This is the land of “cottages,” huge mansions that were built by some of the wealthiest people the world has ever known. The ones to visit include the Breakers and Marble House, with its unique tea house to the rear. But I also loved seeing Rough Point, Doris Duke’s famous home. Duke’s family founded Duke University and the wealth she inherited came from American Tobacco.
Newport is an intoxicating mix of historic architecture blended with dramatic coastal cliffs, and nowhere is this better appreciated than along the city's famous Cliff Walk. This path winds along the coastal edge of the lavish properties that were built for America's aristocracy at the turn-of-the-century. The views are breathtaking and it’s good to stop and take it all in with others who are walking near you. There are a few parts that require good footwear and it’s a three mile walk, so plan to bring a bottle of water just in case!
But Newport is much more that a resort destination. There is a great deal to occupy your time. I highly recommend exploring the town on foot. It is very walkable and it’s fun to browse in the unique shops on Thames Street. If you can get out on the water, definitely do so. And make the trip to Narragansett. Point Judith is known as the calamari capital of America. If you get the chance to have Rhode Island style calamari, do it. The influence of the Italian and Portuguese culture of the state is apparent in this dish. Sometimes I dream about it, but my sister can’t exactly send me a care package of fried seafood, so I just need to visit her more!
Restaurants
Clarke Cooke House – this is a historic tavern that has a number of different personalities. My favorite is coming in the fall or winter when it is a bit cooler and sitting by the fire with a nice cocktail. But in the summer, it’s just as inviting. My favorite cocktail in town is served here: Newport Water. It’s a combination of Veuve Cliquot and elderflower liquer. You can also enjoy sushi or more traditional New England styled seafood meals.
The Black Pearl – there are a few experiences that people from Newport will insist you try and one is the clam chowder from the Black Pearl. It’s delicious and fresh and full of herbs. Its wonderful to sit outside on the patio and enjoy a taste of the sea and watch the world walk by.
Corner Café – My sister insisted that we have breakfast here because it’s the best in town and I really can’t argue with her. With Portuguese and West Coast influences, the menu is a delight. I had the Vermont omelette with sausage, caramelized apples, walnuts, and cheddar topped with powdered sugar. And my husband of course had the Irishman omelette with sautéed mushrooms, onions, potatoes, rashers, herbs and cheddar. Definitely find this place and check it out!
The Mooring – this is one of the hardest reservations to get in town, but you should wait it out, because it is worth it. The location right on Newport Harbor can’t be beat and the food is simple but perfect. I had grilled scallops with a corn salad and my son had the lobster, because of course you must!
Pour Judgement – this is a local favorite and has a dive bar vibe with delicious, affordable and creative pub food. It was hard to pick what to eat from the many daily specials. My kids went for a standard burger and declared it one of the best they had ever had!
Belle’s Café – this café offers a unique set up at the Newport Shipyard, where you can observe some of the largest sailboats you have ever set your eyes on and eat a delicious breakfast. I had the build your own omelet with spinach and swiss and a large cup of coffee. Heaven by the water.
Matunuck Oyster Bar – this is actually in South Kingstown on the way to Narragansett, but it’s worth checking out if you have a car, which I highly recommend in Newport. This was probably one of my favorite meals and that’s saying a lot in a town with a great deal to offer. Start with the famous Rhode Island style Calamari, which is made with hot cherry peppers. Another of my favorites are the fried clam bellies. But if the mood strikes you, this is an excellent place for lobster!
Recommendations
1. This is a town that begs for walking. With gorgeous sea breezes and vistas that go on forever, you can easily get in your steps and spend an enjoyable day exploring.
2. Enjoy a cocktail on the lawn at Castle Hill, a hotel which sits high above the water where you can watch some of the most impressive sailing vessels you have ever see before making their way out of the harbor.
3. Go to the Frosty Freez in Middletown to get one of their soft dipped ice cream cones. I am a big fan of ice cream and this was a fun old-fashioned experience.
4. Make the trip to Block Island if just for a day. Get on the ferry in the morning and when you arrive, have a local take you directly to the Oar for a mudslide and lunch. This feels like a vacation and you will want to stay all day. Head over to the Mohegan Bluffs and walk down to the ocean to stack rocks. It’s incredible and you will most likely not be alone. And have your final cocktail at Ballard’s where there is all day live music and beach cabanas. For a moment, you will forget you are in Rhode Island and believe you are in the Caribbean!
5. Spend a day at the beach. There are several worth checking out. My sister’s favorite is Gooseberry, where we spent an enjoyable day. There is a snack bar and a bathroom – the important amenities one needs! Another beach that is popular is Easton’s beach which is within walking distance of a number of restaurants for provisions if needed.
6. Oddly, Newport does not have a number of good grocery shopping options. If you are looking for something gourmet to make at your rental house, you might want to plan ahead or plan to drive to Warwick, RI for what you need.
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