I’ve been in a New York State of Mind of late, not only because I like Billy Joel, but mainly because my son has been living in the city and attending university, which has required me to make multiple trips and given me a serious shot of nostalgia. It’s also the place I celebrated my first wedding anniversary and now my 25th. New York is a place that I loved almost from the time I first laid eyes on it. Where some might be overwhelmed, I loved its grittiness and character. The loud horns blaring. And the shimmer of Times Square, the Empire State, and the shadows at sundown. It’s big, it’s loud, and it's tough. Brother, you know you’re in NYC. Just like the song says!
But there is something more than the many things that have already been said in song and film. It’s how the souls barely react when they see something crazy like a man of at least 6’9 wearing nothing but a black leather thong and boots (true story). Or the pleasure of finding the most random things under the sun on a street that at first seems non-descript but reveals itself to be a hidden treasure. A place of beauty and calm and at times, total chaos and constant change and upheaval.
I married one of those blasé New Yorkers and I don’t mind at all that even though I have traveled myself on 6 of the 7 continents, I get excited and sound like a total nerd pointing out excitedly that I can find something seriously unique there that I can’t get anywhere else. His response is always the same: it is New York. Of course.
When our son decided that he wanted to go to school in New York, after high fiving and jumping for joy, we got serious. More than any other place in the United States, it is a true metropolis. It’s a feast for the eyes, the stomach, and the soul. He would be exposed to everything and everyone. And more than before, so would we on our frequent trips North.
Rather than the usual litany of my favorite restaurants and places to visit, I want to share what I am excited about.
Places to Eat
Dhamaka – I had read a lot about this new Indian restaurant located in Essex Market on the Lower East Side that explores the forgotten side of the country. It is as exciting as what
everyone has been saying. We started with some of the most vibrant and interesting cocktails I have had in a while. The English Babu was a vibrant purple and had gin, prosecco, plum liqueur, and butterfly pea powder. John’s was the Paan-E-Behar, a drink made of gin, Canton ginger liqueur, and Betel leaf. We also shared a Biskoot, which was given to us after it was made mistakenly as the bartender thought we might be interested in trying it. He was right. It was made of biscotti liqueur (never knew there was such a thing!), Campari, dry vermouth, Ron Zacapa 23, and chocolate bitters, which were amazing! The food was very eclectic and intriguing. We only shared the Papdi Chaat, but it was really delicious and spicy, and we were left with wanting more. It is definitely a place we plan to return to in the future!
Scarr’s Pizza – There are very few places that people in New York are willing to wait for, so you know you are in for a treat when you arrive at a pizza place with people willing to hang out for over 30 minutes for a slice on a Friday night. This was my second visit to Scarr’s and I was just as impressed this time as I was the first time. The crust is thin and perfect, as it should be given that the owner mills his own flour! We were particularly enamored with the Hotboi slice with jalapeno, pepperoni, and Mike’s hot honey. Sounds weird but is delicious!
La Mercerie Café at the Roman and Williams Guild – Located inside of a lovely, curated design shop in Soho on Howard Street sits a divine French restaurant that attracts the beautiful people. Go inside and find amazing decorative books, fine furnishings and lovely dinnerware while enjoying a glass of wine and a fabulous cheese plate. Crepes, quiches, and other fine French dishes are offered. It feels like you are instantly transported to Paris. The flowers and landscaping in the interior and exterior are probably some of the most beautiful I have ever seen.
Jean Georges – I agonized about where to go for our special 25th anniversary dinner for months. We considered Per Se and a spot closer to home, the Inn at Little Washington, but ultimately decided to visit Jean Georges Vongerichten’s flagship restaurant located at One Central Park West adjacent to the Trump International Hotel. I had dined previously at Jean George’s other restaurants in New York including the long-departed Spice Market and Vong. The chef owner is an expert at combining French flavors with Asian flair from his travels and time spent in Hong Kong. The 10-course extravaganza was essentially one of the best meals of my life with the service to match. I had been previously to Le Cirque when Daniel Boulud was the reigning chef and to Eric Ripert’s Le Bernadin. Marea, River Café, Gramercy Tavern, and Casa Mono round out my experience with Michelin starred restaurants in New York. But this was an experience that could not be matched. Everything from the butter from Brittany to the delicate courses of foie gras and passion infused lobster was a hit. Some people crave beach vacations, but I crave amazing food for my special occasions. If you have a milestone event, I can highly recommend this experience to anyone.
Hawksmoor – My son Ryan wanted steak, so we decided to try a place I am familiar with from London, which is the very modern Hawksmoor. Located in the heart of Gramercy in the recently restored Assembly Hall within the landmarked United Charities Building, Hawksmoor serves big cuts of aged beef with duck fat fries and oysters roasted with bone marrow. Unlike some places, however, you can decide what size cut of beef you enjoy as well as what part from the ultra-pricey to a lower priced cut like a rump. It’s quite an experience and the setting is superb. If you are looking for a place that makes you feel like a King or Queen for a day, this is the spot!
Casa Della Mozzarella – Now that Ryan is living up in the city, I have had the opportunity to visit this wonderful spot for sandwiches and freshly made mozzarella on a few occasions and can highly recommend it to anyone passing through the Bronx! It’s a very tiny shop, but the line moves quickly. I always get the sandwich on a loaf which is toasted. My favorite is the Carcio, which has roast pork, fresh mozzarella, artichoke, hot capicola and white balsamic. Another great one is the Bronx Tale, which comes with roast beef, regular balsamic, sun dried tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. Check it out and you will not be disappointed!
Pastis – I so love this place. We visited it on our first anniversary and were thrilled when it reopened in the meatpacking district of New York. It is fun and charming and reminds one of France. I was absolutely over the moon to learn a branch will be opening closer to home in DC in 2023. My boys love the brunch offerings, particularly the waffles. I am more partial to dinner and tend to enjoy the burger or the steak with frites. On our most recent trip, we simply sat at the bar and had a cocktail and talked to the bartender and had an amazing time as always!
Jack’s Wife Freda – Thanks to friend and former colleague Tara, we ended up having a much-needed breakfast at this lively, fun café with delicious and unusual breakfast offerings. I was very tempted to try the rosewater waffle, but ended up with the more standard, yet unique, egg sandwich with duck bacon and fries. It was just what I needed along with a cantaloupe mimosa. John had the Mediterranean breakfast, and it was equally sublime. The location in Chelsea is fabulously located and great for people watching!
Shops
Byredo – I am kind of obsessed with the colors of eyeshadow that Byredo offers, but even without that, you will find some amazing unisex derived scents and candles that will keep you pleasantly occupied at their store on Wooster Street in Soho. The staff is friendly and delights in providing generous samples that I am really looking forward to trying when I have a special occasion!
Posteritati – While ambling around Manhattan, we happened upon the so called “Little Paris” of Manhattan and found this amazing shop located on Centre Street. It is truly an amazing collection of movie posters curated by artists, genre, and year. If you are interested in posters as art, this is the place for you. I have an interest in French art and French film and absolutely love this unique store. But even if you don’t, you will find something that hues a bit more closely to your interests!
Kalustyan’s – This is one of my favorite specialty markets in New York, located in the former home of President Chester A. Arthur. Kalustyan’s is known for carrying a wide range of spices, teas and hard to find ingredients from all over the globe. I enjoyed introducing my son Ryan to the store, which is a stone’s throw from Curry Hill, a neighborhood where you can find affordable Indian food.
Bars
Spring Lounge – If you want a spot to watch the world walking by, and you probably do, because New York is exactly the kind of place for the best people watching, this spot is perfectly situated right in Nolita on Spring Street. Not a fancy spot by any means with a group of people who are clearly the “cheers” clientele of the neighborhood, this has been the go-to spot for the area since 1920. If you like a well poured beer or a chat with the local postman in an unpretentious locale, this is where you need to go.
Vin Sur Vingt – We happened upon this lovely French themed wine bar in the Flatiron district and were pleased to find happy hour specials and an excellent vibe with many people coming directly from work to enjoy quality time with friends.
Gun Hill Brewing Company – My husband John lived on Gun Hill Road in the Bronx when he was young and this one feels kind of special as a result. It’s a place we will be checking out more frequently as we make the trip up North and spend time with our son. Items on the list I will be checking out include Ginger Snap, which includes ginger spices and Salute 2 Galaxy, a triple dry hopped IPA with galaxy hops. John had the Void of Light, a stout with espresso and chocolate flavors. It was very potent and memorable if you are a fan of stouts!
Places
Little Island – This shot of land within spitting distance of the High Line is a sight to behold in the Hudson River. It’s a public park, featuring a lush landscape and a small café where on a beautiful day, you will see all kinds of people from around the world and more than a few close to home catching rays and relaxing. It’s truly an urban oasis and it’s crazy to imagine that it is manmade right on top of what used to be Pier 54, which operated the British Cunard-White Star line, the starting point for the RMS Lusitania and what was supposed to be the landing point for the Titanic. You can still see the steel archway for the entrance as you walk on to the island. It was built by Barry Diller and his wife Diane von Furstenberg and will be something that people can enjoy for many years to come.
Whitney Museum – I absolutely love the museums of New York and have been visiting since my very first trip as a child with my parents. My favorites are the Met, the Frick, the Natural History Museum, and MoMa. This was my first visit ever to the Whitney, which I had read about on one of my visits to my sister in Newport, as Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney was mentioned in our tours of the Breakers and Marble House. Like the Guggenheim, part of the appeal of visiting the Whitney lies in the building where its art is presented. Going out on the rooftop deck was actually thrilling and had a spectacular view of the surrounding area. It is a timed entry, so you need to plan ahead for your visit. If you come early, there are many shops in the surrounding area of the Meatpacking district that will keep you occupied.
Things
New Moynahan Train Hall at Penn Station – I can’t express enough how thrilled I was to take the train on this trip (my husband John is a New Yorker and likes to drive when we go together!) and arrive into a splendid new station that finally equals the status of the amazing city it serves. Taking the train from Penn always reminded me of what a rat must feel like in a windowless cave underneath the ground. The food offerings have vastly improved as well with shops including Jacobs Pickle, Sauce Pizza (I have been to the East Village location and it’s quite good!), H&H Bagels, and Blue Bottle Coffee to name a few. It resembles the kind of train station that one finds in Europe with all of the beauty that those behold. Things are not quite perfect though! Coming off the train, we had no choice but to walk up two flights of stairs with suitcases or wait for a lengthy amount of time for elevators. Why they did not install escalators is a great mystery. Also, the newsstand does not have browsable magazines, which for this aficionado is a huge disappointment! I guess I have to go back to the old Penn Station for that!
Karaoke in Koreatown – My husband John loves karaoke, so this was a must for our recent visit! I went once before with our friends Pilar and Nadejda and really enjoyed it. Our setup on this trip was to rent a private room and buy some pricey rail drinks, but other price points abound. My preference is to do as I did with my friends and go to a bar that allows for a more freeform experience with a huge songbook. On this trip we did Dire Straits, ABBA, and Neil Diamond (which made us laugh!) It is fun to do this as a group and enjoy one of the excellent restaurants afterwards in the vicinity!
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