Connecticut is one of those places that people seem to have mixed feelings about. It is a place that many people typically are driving through for the purpose of traveling to another destination. My own sister who has spent a fair amount of time there as a New England resident is also not entirely convinced of its attributes. But there are many and I see it as my job to not only inform but convince you that it is a place you must visit.
Home to people that my husband John and I love including his uncle, aunt, cousin and my best friend from college, Kelly, simply a mention of it brings a smile to my face. How could it not? The Constitution State is only a short distance away from New York City and the southernmost point of New England. It shares many of the physical charms of the region including the beautiful stone walls, gorgeous fall foliage, historic towns, and a beautiful coastline. Even better is the food which is pretty much outstanding. It is also a state of many firsts including the first color television, phone book, Polaroid camera, nuclear-powered submarine, and helicopter.
Many years ago, we visited New London and I learned about the history of the region. It was lovely to walk around the historic waterfront district and to check out Fort Trumbull State Park, which was built in 1777 for the purpose of protecting the New London Harbor from British attack and later served as part of the country’s coastal defense system. We also visited the Monte Cristo Cottage, which features prominently in playwright Eugene O’Neill’s Long Day’s Journey Into Night and Ah, Wilderness! The house is named for O’Neill’s father the actor James O’Neill, and his most popular role as Edmond Dantès in The Count of Monte Cristo. I had the pleasure of seeing this play once on the London stage and seeing the house in person was really quite wonderful as one can practically imagine the scenes of addiction and love playing out in front of your very eyes.
New London is also the setting for ferries, which take visitors to Orient Point, NY on Long Island and to Block Island, Rhode Island, one of my favorite places in the U.S. But even more than that it is a place to celebrate American ingenuity. At the Submarine Force Library and Museum, you can visit the USS Nautilus, the world's first operational nuclear-powered submarine and the first submarine to complete a submerged transit of the North Pole.
This is not the only area with a historical connection to the U.S. military.
On my most recent trip, my friend Kelly and I traveled to Stratford to check out the Stratford Antique Center. Right down the road is the National Helicopter Museum, which features a model of the first helicopter flight in Stratford in 1939, an actual Sikorsky S-76 cockpit and a computer-based helicopter flight simulator. Russian American Igor Sikorsky took flight in the VS-300, the world's first practical helicopter in 1939 in Stratford. But back to the antique shop. I was a little bit put off by the plan to visit the shop at first, since my mom used to take my sister and I on days long antiquing treks and I am still haunted by the memories of being surrounded by artwork with eyes that seemed to follow us wherever we ventured. But this was not the case in Stratford. I ended up with some fine books and treasures and now I want to go back!
Other places I enjoy include Westport and Greenwich, the southernmost and westernmost town in the state. Downtown Greenwich is anchored by the Historic District, an area worth exploring on foot so you can properly appreciate the variety of architectural styles used in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Just a 40-minute trip from Manhattan, the area boasts great shopping, food, and art museums. The Bruce Museum integrates art, natural and global environmental history, mineralogy, a live marine tank, and more. The artwork includes pieces by the Impressionists and sculptures by Auguste Rodin, Hiram Powers, Frederick MacMonnnies, and others.
If you are interested in checking out the “sport of kings” you can look no further than the Greenwich Polo Club to watch a real live polo match open to the public. Finally, there is fantastic shopping in Greenwich. On one recent trip Kelly and I browsed in a men’s shop Rodd & Gunn so I could purchase some clothes for my son Ryan, who I wanted to sit for some senior class photos. And we enjoyed trying on shoes in Stubbs and Wooten, although admittedly I don’t think they carried my size as I wear a women’s 11 1/2 , but it was sure fun looking at all the designs, which included martini glasses, dogs and even zip codes on the bespoke slippers.
Westport is also lovely area and boasts Compo Beach, one of the best beaches in Connecticut. It boasts 29 acres of park, which includes a marina, pickleball courts, a skate park, basketball courts, beach volleyball courts, a baseball diamond, a pavilion, and a children's playground. This is the town where Martha Stewart got her start and once lived on Turkey Hill Farm, her first house. Many other celebrities live in this beautiful town and once you see the gorgeous homes and town center, you can see why. Connecticut simply does charming well and draws you in right from the start!
Food Recommendations
Rather than simply providing a list of restaurants (which I will mention below) that one should visit, I think it is really important to try some of the best contributions to American cuisine that Connecticut has to offer.
Hot Lobster Rolls – I have to admit that I am not a fan of the cold mayonnaise-based salad like lobster rolls from Maine. Yes, the lobster is the best, but the method of preparation is not my jam. Rather, I much prefer the hot buttered version from Connecticut served at places like Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough in Noank or Guilford Lobster Pound in Guilford. Supposedly, the hot lobster roll craze began about 80 years ago at an eatery called Perry’s in Milford when the proprietor heated up freshly picked lobster meat, doused it with melted butter and put it on a bun. Does it sound simple? Sure. Is it sublime? Yes! By the way, my favorite version of this wonderful contribution to the menu is in Boston of all places at Neptune Oyster, but I will save my comments for my article on that city for another time!
Connecticut Pizza – I know what you are thinking. How is Connecticut pizza better than anything coming out of New York? I am not sure if it is better, but it is pretty darn amazing and ranks right up there next to some of the best in the country. What is it exactly? There are a few styles to get out of the way first. New Haven-style pizza is a style of thin-crust, coal-fired Neapolitan pizza common in and around New Haven. I made the Irishman stop once so we could all try Frank Pepe’s in New Haven, which is probably the most famous pizzeria in the state. They are known for a signature crispy yet chewy, slightly charred crust and a delicious fresh clam pie. It sounds weird, but it is amazing. In New Haven alone, there are two other notable pizzerias including Sally’s Apizza and Modern Apizza. I have not visited these establishments, but I know everyone has their personal favorites and Sally’s usually tops the list. Another pizzeria of note is Colony Grill in Stamford. My friends Kelly and Russ made sure I tried the famous hot oil pizza, which is ultra-thin and super chewy and is served with only a few basic, traditional toppings (meatball, sausage, pepperoni, mushroom, anchovies, etc.) It is nice and light which means you have more room to enjoy a beverage or two of your choice!
Steamed Cheeseburgers - The steamed cheeseburger is believed to have been invented at a restaurant called Jack’s Lunch in Middletown, Connecticut. The hamburger is topped with cheese and steamed in little stainless-steel boxes before being served on a roll. The end result is a moist, juicy burger that can be topped with any toppings of your choice. Ted’s Restaurant in Meriden is the most famous eatery that serves steamed cheeseburgers.
Recommendations
1. Visit Yale University – One of the jewels of the vaunted Ivy League, New Haven’s Yale University is home to art galleries, music venues, a natural history museum, and even a rare book library. Today, you can take a campus tour or just relax on the green and watch students and visitors from all over the world explore this fascinating campus.
2. Spend a Weekend in Mystic – A picturesque town located on the Mystic River, this is a lovely area to soak up history and visit the top-notch Mystic Aquarium. I have had the pleasure of visiting a few times and really enjoyed this famous former whaling village which was also the setting of a famous Julia Roberts film, Mystic Pizza many years ago. It is the perfect place to hop off for visits to Stonington, and Newport Rhode Island, which is only 45 minutes away.
3. Relax on Hammonasset Beach State Park – When my son Ryan was little, we visited Madison, CT, for an overnight and found this beautiful park which boasts the longest shoreline in the state and is known as one of the best beaches. Madison is a charming town along the shores of the Long Island Sound and is well worth a visit. It is also home to world famous chef Jacques Pepin.
4. Go to Louis Lunch – This historic circa 1895 purveyor of hamburgers in New Haven supposedly introduced the hamburger to the U.S. Family owned and operated, the restaurant is currently run by the 4th generation and is one of the oldest, family-run businesses in the country. The cool thing to see here are the cast iron grills original to 1898. The hamburgers are cooked in a sort of sideway manner so the fat drips away from the meat. They are served on toast with little accompaniment and absolutely no ketchup!
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