There are hard truths about a city like Baltimore that some people would rather ignore. Street violence and lurid scenes from shows like “The Wire” present a place on edge that only tells part of the story. The jobs that once formed the backbone of Charm City all but evaporated when corporations like Bethlehem Steel abandoned this city by the Harbor and the blue-collar population was left floundering. My own personal history is woven throughout its history as my immigrant family came to find opportunities that paid well for people who were not educated. My grandfather was a barber on Charles Street. And my dad worked in factories making soap saving for the graduate degree that ultimately served as a ticket out of what would have been hard labor and menial wages.
Baltimore is really the city that gave me life. I have had many happy occasions there. I was born at St. Joseph’s, a Catholic hospital not far out of town in Towson and I was married just outside the city almost 25 years ago and we had our wedding reception at the Garrett Jacobs Mansion in Mount Vernon. I have also experienced some sad times as my dad passed away there just a little over three years ago at the University of Maryland Medical Center. I had a hard time setting foot in the city after that, but I’ve been back since then and it’s time to talk about it.
Many people think they know Baltimore, but they probably have not really given it a chance. I was surprised a few years ago when I was talking with someone who told me to be careful heading into the city. I was headed to Harbor East, one of the nicest areas of the city and yet I was reminded that I could be robbed or even worse - killed. Yes, there is violence and much of it is very unfortunate, but it does not define the place and nor does it make me any less inclined to go there. I feel the same way about Chicago and New York, places that have seen crime go up in recent years.
What is our responsibility? I have thought about this. I do not live in Baltimore as I settled not far from where I grew up. But the city gave me something and it certainly gave something to other people. I am not wealthy and do not have any influence, but that does not mean I cannot teach my kids about the city or continue to support the establishments there.
So, it is with this in mind that I wanted to write about the Baltimore that I know. The city beyond the Raven’s stadium and the Inner Harbor, which I honestly have not visited in many years. Where do I like to go? There are so many places. Maybe it is best to start with a running list of where I like to eat and go from there.
If you can get below the surface, plenty of pleasures abound in this fair city. There are several distinct neighborhoods that are worth exploring including Fell’s Point, Hampden, Federal Hill, and Mount Vernon. It is a place of high learning with one of the best medical schools in the country located near Homewood, Johns Hopkins University. The city was also the last stop for Edgar Allen Poe, who is buried at the Westminster Burying Ground at Fayette and Greene Streets. This was the home of Wallis Simpson, the woman who stole the heart of future king, Edward VIII. Other legends from the area include Babe Ruth, who first swung a bat at the St. Mary’s Industrial School for Boys and the most decorated Olympian of all time, Michael Phelps. Writers and musicians seem to develop in this multicultural melting pot. It is interesting to note that Upton Sinclair, writer of the Jungle and H.L. Mencken, a famous journalist hailed from the same city streets. And let’s not forget that Frank Zappa and Ric Ocasek both were born and bred in The City that Reads.
Baltimore was a place that drew immigrants. It was second to only New York as the largest landing place for immigrants on the East Coast of the U.S. As such, it drew many people from Germany, Poland and of course, Italy, where my grandparents arrived from at the turn of the 20th century. It is quirky and fun when time is taken to explore. If you get the chance, take some time, and see it for yourself!
Here are a few places to visit with excellent food:
Restaurants/Bakeries/Food Markets
The Food Market – This is a great spot for brunch located in Hampden, which is very popular and for good reason – it’s fun and has terrific food and fabulous Bloody Mary’s! If you are looking for a fun spot to meet up with a group – look no further than this spot, but make sure you get there early!
Trinacria – One of my absolute favorite spots in the city is this gem, which in Italian translates to the triangle of Sicily. A shop that has been serving customers for well over 100 years knows what it is doing. I have been coming around from the time I was an infant with my mom, and nothing has changed. Some of the same people working when I was a little girl are still working there today. They have amazing sandwiches, terrific buys on wine, and a whole slew of cold cuts and cheeses on offer. The last time we went, I was able to pick up Brioschi, a lemon-flavored antacid from Italy that we always had in my house growing up. It is the little thing here that I love including homemade cookies and sauces for making every Italian night at your house complete.
Underground Pizza – After reading about this place last year, I decided I wanted to check it out so Luke, my mom and I made the trip. This is Detroit style pizza heaven. I love the cheese encrusted crust and unusual toppings. There is nothing doughy or heavy about it, which surprised me the first time I had it. It is airy and light and really delicious. I highly recommend the sausage, peppers, and onions pizza (the PO) and the Flag, which is half red sauce and half pesto. This is artistic pizza, and it is a beautiful thing to see and experience!
Ovenbird Bakery – There is a phenomenon of late in which baked goods are so popular that people are standing in line for the delicious products. Ovenbird, located in Baltimore’s Little Italy is no exception. I stopped here on a Saturday morning on a very cold day in the Winter and there was a line 2 people deep. Once I got to the front, I understood why. Delicious sourdough bread, English muffins and bagels sit next to some lovely croissants and scones. I don’t know why, but places like this make me go nuts – and I am not even a bread person! If it is excellent, I will have it though and this is a place worth making an exception for!
The Prime Rib – One of my dad’s absolute favorite places to celebrate a special occasion, this classic steakhouse is worth checking out. Featuring 1940s décor and tuxedoed waiters, this is a spot where one feels special. Order a martini and a filet (my favorite steak) with a side of creamed spinach and see what I mean.
DiPasquales – I had the opportunity to visit the new space after years of going to DiPasquales in Highlandtown. I liked the customer focused service, and it was easy to find item
s on display, however, the space seems to have lost seating. But this is a small complaint when you consider the bounty! Amazing, prepared foods, wines galore, and Italian groceries aplenty abound in this must stop for anyone who loves all things Italian. At the center of it all is Joe who has worked here for as long as I can remember. He said the new space was working well (appears to be in close proximity to the young professionals in the new apartments), but I could tell he misses his old space and said they may be back someday when I asked. I read once that Al Capone worked overtop the space when he was trying to go legit. If that is true, it adds yet another layer of cool to an already legendary place.
Marketplaces
One of the things I truly enjoy about being a Marylander is the promixity we all enjoy to amazing and creative food offering served up in spaces where you can nosh easily going from place to place to try everything. Long before cafeteria-style food markets became a hot culinary trend nationwide, Baltimore’s historic public markets (the oldest continuously operating public market system in the United States) were serving up all kinds of items to locals for at least two centuries in some cases. It’s fun to market hop and try the different offerings at both new and old spaces. The only spot I haven’t visited is Hollins Market, but it’s on my list! If you have the chance, I highly recommend checking these wonderful places out. The history of the city is evident and the passion that all of these makers bring to everything they make is contagious.
Whitehall Mill – I was pleasantly surprised to visit this new market not very long ago and discover some of the wonderful merchants. Located in 1798 mill, Whitehall features Crust by Mack, offering delectable pies, Gundalow Gourmet, and Firefly Farms Market. It is also home to True Chesapeake Oyster Co.
R House – This market located not far from Johns Hopkins has an eclectic set of vendors offering everything from Hawaiian poke (excellent) to vegan smoothies. There also a bar located centrally in the middle of the space serving up seasonal cocktails and craft beers.
Mount Vernon Marketplace – Located right around the corner from the Walters Art Museum and located near the Washington Monument, you can find this market, which has an oyster bar, a taphouse serving premium burgers and a vendor offering handmade dumplings.
Lexington Market – The granddaddy of all Baltimore markets, this one is one of the oldest in the country serving customers since 1782. It’s the most famous and it’s also the one that needed to be rehabbed more than any other. The current renovation is expected to create a walkable urban plaza and will hopefully draw more people downtown. It is located right around the corner from the University of Maryland Medical Center and offers such treats as Faidley’s Seafood, famous for crabcakes and Connie’s Chicken and Waffles.
Cross Street Market – Once an open-air market, Cross Street was built into an Italianate structure at the end of the 1800s. When that building burned down in the 1950s, it was built into its current form. Renovated in 2019, the space now offers communal seating. A recent visit showed crowds returning to the space, which has a truly fun vibe, particularly on game days. Here, like at Lexington Market, you can find old school vendors offering groceries for sale, such as Steve’s Lunch and Fenwick’s Meats, offering prime cuts of beef. It is fun to watch a game here and wander around Federal Hill.
Broadway Market – One of the oldest markets in the city, Broadway was opened in 1786 in Fells Point. There are a number of excellent food purveyors including Sal’s Seafood and Taharka Bros Ice Cream to name a few.
Recommendations
1. First and foremost, try not to panic about safety. Like any major city, Baltimore experiences its share of crime, but if you come prepared you will be okay. I usually don’t walk about at night like I used to when I was younger. I try to park using public lots if at all possible and I do not leave anything in my car visible from the outside. I made a mistake once and left a camera in my car and it was gone by the time I got back. I stupidly also left my wallet in the vehicle. The thieves were thoughtful though. They did not damage my car when they broke in (I think the police said they used something to jimmy the lock) and I was able to retrieve my driver’s license where I left it. What can I say? I was a young college student. I know that isn’t an excuse, but my brain wasn’t fully formed until I turned 25, so that is my excuse!
2. Go to Orioles Park at Camden Yards and Catch a Game. You don’t have to be a fan of the Orioles (although you should be) to enjoy a day at one of the nicest baseball stadiums in the league. When the Orioles Park at Camden Yards stadium debuted, it was the first of its kind and received accolades from architects all over. The design incorporated the Camden Yards, which was once a rail yards on the site of a major railroad station for the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Incorporating the history of the area into the design to make it slightly retro, was genius and many cities have attempted to replicate this design in their stadiums. The food is actually pretty good as a bonus – you can pick up a decent crabcake and enjoy old bay fries on the side.
3. Visit the National Aquarium. I have visited aquariums all over the country from Monterey Bay to New Orleans to Chicago, Boston, and New York. By far the best of the lot is this centrally located spot near the Inner Harbor. What make the National Aquarium so special? It combines an actual rainforest with science-based education programs and provides a living collection of more than 20,000 animals from more than 800 species of mammals and sharks, fish, birds. Amphibians, and reptiles. It is not an inexpensive outing, but it is well worth it if you have the chance to make the trip. It offers children a view of a world we do not get to see very often beneath the sea. Seeing my kids faces light up at the hammerhead sharks and dolphins was worth every penny!
4. Learn About the Origins of Our National Anthem at Fort McHenry. The Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine marks the site of one of America's finest military victories – the Battle of Baltimore (1814). The invading British fleet was defeated by the resistance at Fort McHenry, and so inspired Francis Scott Key, that he composed The Star-Spangled Banner in the following months. It is a really interesting place to visit and to imagine what it must have been like to be a soldier during a difficult time in our nation’s history. Although I have struggled at times with my country’s flag, I still get emotional when I hear the National Anthem. As a child who grew up living overseas, it meant something to me and I am very grateful, despite my occasional moments, of what my country has given me.
5. Check Out the B&O Railroad Museum. This museum represents the birthplace of American railroading. It was here that the first stone of the railroad and the nation’s first mile of commercial track were laid, and where countless innovations in railroad technology were produced. It is great fun to visit E. Francis Baldwin’s iconic Roundhouse and to see the historic trains and visit the shop. I took my boys there when they were young, and they loved it since they were into Thomas the Tank Engine. It is an important part of our nation’s history and led to the industrialization of our nation and served as the Union's lifeline and supply chain during the Civil War. I highly recommend a trip to this museum which you will not soon forget.
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